This must be Day 6 or 7. The facts that I’ve lost count and have not had time to blog demonstrates the fullness and richness of the days I’ve spent in Tuscany.
Remember back on Day 1, I talked about opening my eyes to moments of awe? I’ve seen many on this trip, from the way the Tuscan sun casts light on the rows of vineyards, to the kindness of the Italian people (with my lack of knowledge of the Italian language, to not knowing where to put in a Euro in public bathrooms), to simultaneous sameness and separateness in different cultures, to the centuries of history that occurred in Italy before America was even a dream.
But two moments have stood out to me. They are as diverse as notte and giorno, but each were awe inspiring.
The first happened on our trip to Florence. It was a rainy day, which made maneuvering around the city a challenge, though it also added a bit of colorful charm as I watched people from all over the world run around with their colorful umbrellas.
When it came time to wait in line to enter the Accademia Gallery of Florence to see Michelangelo’s David, some in our group decided they didn’t want to wait in the rain and ventured off to find some culinary delights. I was one of those who waited, and I’m glad I did.
Though I was certainly in awe of the size and detail of David, the sinew of his body, that even in marble, his curls could look so soft, the fingernails, toenails, lines in the knuckles.
Seeing the series of partially-completed marble statues that preceded The David, The Prisoners, (allegories of the soul imprisoned in the body), I imagined Michelangelo working on the raw slabs of marble to completion of the works of art.
I was in awe of all of the Michelangelo statues, but the biggest moment of awe in Florence was at the Basilica of St. Croce.
From the moment I walked in, I was filled with reverence and wonder. The noise and hustle of the outside world silenced and it seemed all who had entered, regardless of country of origin, religion, political affiliation, or whatever “difference” seems to separate us these days, felt the same awe upon entering. It might have been the art, or the history, or the size of the space, or the religion. Who can say? But some kind of peace and quiet was definitely shared.
I wish I would have studied more about the Basilica prior to visiting, but as I walked around and read the plaques and signs around the sanctuary and nave, I noticed who was buried there. I physically felt I was in the presence of greatness: Michelangelo, Galileo, Machiavelli, Donatello and others.
Imagine standing between the tombs of Galileo and Michelangelo!
What I felt is ineffable, but I’ll try to describe the feeling. Before that moment, these men were words on the pages of a history book. But standing between these tombs, staring at the busts and studying their faces, the men felt real. I felt their impact on the world rather than simply reading words.
I’d just seen Michelangelo’s (6 March 1475 – 18 February 1564) works of art and marveled at his skill in portraying the human form. Studying the face of his bust, I saw the sensitivity he must have had to so finely detail every line and curve of David.
I knew something of Galileo’s (15 February 1564 – 8 January 1642) contributions, but googled his name to learn more as I stared at his tomb. He is considered the father of physics, astronomy, and the modern scientific method. Brilliant. Genius. Those words hardly touch the surface.
He was also considered a heretic by the Catholic Church. For this reason, it was not until 1737 that his body was moved into the main sanctuary of the Basilica of St. Croce.
How does one describe the greatness of these men, and others who’s bodies or works lie in the Basilica? It’s not possible, at least not for me. So for now, I’ll close, because it is our last morning before departure home.
These days and these memories have also been ineffable, and I’ll write more about them later. For now, arrivederci, Italia. Thanks for the memories!
